Spot The Difference...

There appears to be outrage spiraling through the fashion sections of online media this today, as it has been confirmed that a 2011 cover shoot for 'Flare' magazine (Never heard of it? Nope, me neither) of Jennifer Lawrence appears to have been Photoshopped...... Shock. Horror.

Now, I don't know if any of you can sense my sarcasm there, and if you did you're either a close friend of mine I've badgered to read this ,or, you are just as perplexed as I am as to why this revelation that magazines Photoshop images is suddenly a shock?
Firstly I am going to let you make your own judgement as to whether you think J-Law has undergone serious surgery or just a wee nip and tuck, see the link below for the before and after shots....

 http://31.media.tumblr.com/fc102cdefe8ef12581ed788573d3caa2/tumblr_mgy8i33akg1s405ijo1_250.gif

Now I don't want anyone to mis-translate what I am saying. I do not think that anything about J-Laws original image needed to be changed, I think she is a fantastic role model for young girls with regards to her image and fully back her outspoken and strong minded opinions on the pressure that is put on young women today with their body image. However, I also do not think that J-Law has been transformed into a completely different person here (the mail online is making out like she's metamorphsied into a twig) and think if anything she should be offended that people have actually believe there to be such a grand adjustment taken place. Yes, they may have smoothed the waist EVER so slightly and defined some features, but she still looks as breathtaking as she does in the original image. To the point where I personally have difficulty telling the difference. 

Not only is the tweaking of this photo very slight, but let's be honest, we all do it if we can. I would like to know how many of the people who are demanding civil war over the changes of this photo have ever Instagramed a photo of themselves and filtered it to look flawless, or brightened the colouring of their Facebook photos to give themselves a healthy glow (I'll put my hands up, I do both). We all tweak and change images of ourselves to some extent, and for a publication that makes it business on imagery to make some tiny adjustment, I think can be forgiven.

So what's your opinion on the great Photoshop debate? Should J-Law be so outraged by these moderation's she should pursuit lawsuit? Or, do you think that it was almost 2 years ago now, and I'm not sure I even see a difference?

Scrunch Up

When my best friend once arrived in my presence wearing her hair tied up with a big bulging scrunchie, I firstly thought for a second I had been catipulted into an episode of 'Saved by the Bell', and then I proceeded to laugh a lot.

However, looks like she had the last laugh as a couple months later I was in exactly the position, and had a close friend laughing at me whilst repeatedly calling me 'quirky' pointing at what was tied on top of my head. I then tried to defend my beloved bouffant hair tie with similar lines that my friend had said to me whilst I had been raucously laughing at her. Ones such as "they are just so much softer on my hair!" failed to slide with my mate, and I progressively gave up.

She just loves scrunchies (almost imposed your face onto this, Joanne Pilkington).

However, despite myself having been both laughing and being laughed at, the scrunchie is top of the come back charts within fashion for 2013. With quite a few 20 somethings and older donning the retro accessory to hold back their locks, it's time to look back on what brought the 80s back without looking like you were dressing up for a themed party too much. With an array of celebrities, designers and the general public sporting the scrunchie, maybe it's about time we all let go of our hang ups for this elasticated gem and put our hair up with it instead.... here's to moving the scrunchie forward to 2014

Want to help the scrunchy motion? Look below for where you can get yours.. (you can even buy them in co-op)

http://store.americanapparel.net/rsa0504.html

http://www.saress.com/shop/scrunchies-3/

Commuter Chic?

You'll spy this on most commuter routes nowadays... and it's one of my pet hates. Men, and quite a few women, switch their patent kitten heels and shiny office shoes for a more practical option to support sprinting from the tube at two minutes to 9 to the office... the blessed trainer.

Now, whenever I've looked at this pairing on the tube early in the morning, I'm ashamed to say I'm more willing it to fall down the gap rather than mind it. However, a shoe designer has finally cottoned onto this formidable ensemble, in an attempt to modernize the look and cash in on the growing commuter trend.

Nike have paired with kooky design duo Agi and Sam (my fave fellas) to create a pair of Nike Air Max that celebrate Transport For London's 150th anniversary. Each style features rectangles of orange, brown, gold and black, with tonal beige (Air Max 90s) or black accents (Air Max 1s), and the signature Roundal (the London Underground symbol) on the tongue.

They aren't exactly the most the inconspicuous of trainer choice, especially if you are actually wanting to hide the fact you swapped your office foot for a pair of Nike lace ups early that morning, but if you dare to be bold they could be deemed as a great way to bring some style into your daily commuter outfit, and would certainly be a more cheerful form of footwear for your fellow commuters to stare at bleary eyed that morning.

Fancy grabbing yourself a pair? Jump on either the Bakerloo or Piccadilly Lines to Piccadilly Circus Tube station on 14 December, where 150 pairs will go on sale at 6am at Nike's pop-up kiosk in the ticket hall concourse.

Bunch Of Tarts

No, I'm not talking about Mr Kipling's sweet jammy delights that we all like to munch down on every once in a while (there's an innuendo in there somewhere..) but I am talking about the rise of scottish print this season.

You may relate tartan to either an Mel Gibson screaming 'FREEDOM!' at the end of Braveheart (great film), or a mohawked punk with more piercings than sense, but tartan is not one to shy away from this season with many high street retailers producing garments with the print design on.

Type in 'Tartan' to the search bar on the Zara website and you will be given 56 tartan print pieces of clothing flash up in front of your face, my favourite being this tartan zipped tube dress, even if the weather is in minus temperatures. I imagine it would team well with some black tights (100 denier, I don't cope with the cold) heeled boats, and a black oversized collared peacoat with gold accessories which would really jump out, a winter warmer for the Christmas party season. (i'm not a huge fan of the tied jumper around the waist that Zara have teamed it with, my Mother always told me that looked scruffy).

Do the same with Topshop and you'll get a grand total of 136 tartan delights to peruse upon, from trousers to pyjama bottoms, River Island 121 items, Forever 21 a disappointing 3 items and ASOS unsurprisingly taking the lead with 154 tartish wonders, so it's safe to say you're spoilt for choice on this one.

So why not pay homage to William Wallace this season and tart yourself up, whether it's in a scarf or a two piece suit, you'll be playing the bagpipes and eating short bread before you know it.

Berardi, Born and Bred.

With this Christmas party season fast approaching, I'm sure a lot of you out there will be looking for that certain party dress that makes you imagine Westlifes 'When you're looking like that' playing behind you as you strut through your office shindig. 

Well Ladies, a man creates those exact type of dresses, one that fit and form any body shape making you the apple of every co workers eye to try and get under the mistletoe, and he goes by the name of Antonio Berardi,

              
   

Firstly a quick biography of Berardi; Born from Sicilian descent his parents moved to England in the 1950's and Berardi was brought into this world in 1968, growing up in the same sticks as Maggie Thatcher (they probably weren't neighbours) Berardi was raised in Grantham in the glorious county of Lincolnshire (so not only is Lincolnshire famous for it's sausages, flatlands and me, but it has also produced one of the most influential and credited womenswear designers of our time). Berardi studied at Lincoln College of Art and Design before going onto Central St Martins whilst also working as an assistant to John Galliano. In 1994 his graduate collection caught the attention of Angela Quantrell, a buyer for Liberty (London fashion holding group), and from there on his career skyrocketed.

Berardi once stated that his ideal client is “a woman who is aware of her sexuality, sensuality and who appreciates the meticulous nature of what I do” and that his trademark pieces are “dresses that fit like a glove, and tailored jackets that don’t close but which also fit like a glove”. This is all illuminated in Berardi’s collections, using advanced fabrics and manufacturing techniques he creates sensual, figure loving and striking pieces that help enhance and transform the female silhouette. Below is a form-fitting and complimenting structure panel detailed sleeveless dress by Berardi, and a black and cream panel dress. They are perfect for both the body conscious, and those looking to highlight their assets.

                       

  

               The other superb element to Berardi’s design is that it focuses on making a woman sexy without having to show too much skin; not only is the idea of displaying too much surface area unwelcome for some, but winter is upon us ladies, and Berardi provides the perfect solution to both of these problems. Less is definitely more with him, showing less flesh but still creating a sensual presence by strengthening the contours of the female shape with his designs.

His designs are well loved by a wide variety of celebrity clientele including; Victoria Beckham, Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker and Gwyneth Paltrow. Gwyneth wore a Berardi dress to the 2008 premiere of Two Lovers, a gorgeous silhouetting white body and black lace panel, that went onto win Harpers Bazaar ‘Dress of the Year’ in 2009.

It’s safe to say that Barardi is a pioneer of body form and hard tailoring, making his pieces an essential staple for any woman’s wardrobe to crack out when those festive invites start coming around again.

Little Boys Lost

           

For the past 3 months I have have been learning the ropes at a luxury clothing boutique in the kooky area of Shoreditch, so I thought I would introduce to you 3 of my favourite men in London.. Ben, Gary and Mao-Cho (the dog)..These three are the clever and creative team who have brought Lost Laundry to the edgy East End of London.
 
However, many of you may browse the online site or shop not knowing the journey that this lovely little business has been on, so I am going to enlighten you on how it has grown from a small weekend stall in Camden Market to the exquisite boutique it is today.
 
The Lost Laundry begun back in 2006 when Gary has his own stall in Camden Market, selling second hand pieces of clothing. Around a year later this evolved into an online business, which Ben joined in 2008. The name ‘Lost Laundry’ derived from the concept behind the business, which is the idea that everyone has something in their wardrobe that they have bought but never worn, lost at the back of their closet (we are all guilty of this, I have several items which have gathered more dust than my windowsill). So their original business was like a shelter for clothes, re-homing all the beautiful yet unappreciated attire from around London.
 
From this the business developed into the boutique you’ll find if you stroll along Cheshire Street (just off Brick Lane) today, keeping the name but expanding the stock, opening in 2012, which instead of selling on second hand items brings new past season designer clothing with an emphasis on runway collection pieces to the streets of Shoreditch.

                                        
 
The shop itself is an inviting and quirky establishment, with an inviting atmosphere, stunning stock and luscious smelling candles Lost Laundry is one of a kind and a fantastic break from the over large and over crowded high street stores you curse and swear at on a Saturday morning. Selling mainly one off individual pieces, it’s more a treasure trove than boutique, and a great place to find one off mesmerising pieces that no one else is likely to own.
 
Male or female, if you are looking for something that is going to be original, unique and an investment then Lost Laundry should be your first port of call in London! Not only could you be introduced to that coat you’ve been searching for the upcoming winter or THE dress you’ve been seeking for your works Christmas party, but also you’ll get to meet a really friendly dog!

http://www.lostlaundry.co.uk

                                                            

Queen of Cakes and Clothes

Having been bed bound of late I've found myself being caught up in a bake off bonanza, fashion may be my first love but in joint position with that is baking.

This has consequently resulted in me, amongst many others, being an all time (number one I'd like to think) Mary Berry fan. Having bought all her recipe books, any magazine she features in and watched every bake off episode, cooking programme, or biographical documentary on her (remember 'fan' not 'stalker') I have also come to notice than not only is she an goddess in the kitchen department, but the wardrobe department as well.

Mary (like her cakes) always manages to look elegant and stylish, ageing gracefully unlike no other. Wearing eye-popping and floral blazer, boot cut jeans, delicate and pretty scarves and accessorising with dainty pearls Mary modifies 'prim and proper' - decorating herself as well as her baked delights.

                                      

So if you're if the age where you feel that you should be wearing more function over fashion, and want to compliment your now wise and cultured self, I would take a look into Mary's wardrobe as well as her cook books - looks like we can learn more than how to make the perfect Vicky sponge from her!

Small and Mighty

Logos, we are all familiar with them. Whether its the two tiny Cs that depict Coco Chanel, the top hatted pheasant of Jack Wills, or the polo player of Ralph Lauren, we will all be relatively familiar with one or two fashion brand logos. However these emblems may be small in size but mighty in power, as they could be the key to why you out there are more inclined to purchase that particular label. 

Chanel Logo

Jack Wills Logo

Ralph Lauren Logo

As well as being an important element of brand and design, logos have a significant effect on customers. The logo of luxury goods is symbolic, and are significantly influential on customers. 

I did a bit of research into what could convince a person to buy by a particular brand, and there is the theory of Conspicuous Consumption, which is the description of lavish spending on goods and services that are acquired mainly for the purpose of displaying income or wealth, helping to attain and maintain social status. 

Is a bit of a lude thought.. we may think we are buying these luxury goods and fashion labels because we like the quality, the style or the colour, but sub consusously it is because it holds a modest tag that sets us slightly above everyone else in society. 

Another thought leading on from this is does the exposure of a logo on a product make it more desirable? Imagine you are propositioned with two Mulberry handbags (i’ve been dreaming of that scenario happening to me for several years now), they are both legitimate, made the same, shaped the same, same style, same level of quality... the only difference is, one carries the tree emblem on the outside, and the other doesn't. Do you opt for the more modest version, that doesn't display the logo that can represent the costly nature of it, and just take it for the quality of the make, or do you opt for the one that does state the designer, making most people you walk past with it whip their own handbags over their shoulder. 

Mulberry Logo

As much as I would like to able to say I was that person who would be happy with quality alone, I wouldn’t. I’m only human, as are you, and I don’t think i’m in the minority with this thought. Logos may be sometimes viewed as representing ‘quality and taste’ (i really hate that phrase, as let’s be honest money doesn’t always buy taste) and a society of a higher stature, but it could also represent the love you hold for that particular label, whether you’ve bought it through saving for years, or can afford it with your monthly pay packet. Either way, both these thoughts example to us how important and powerful the small figurines of the fashion industry really are. 

Trick or Treat?

With what is possibly the most commercialised day of the year coming up, it's time to get your broomsticks and vampire fangs out, as Halloween is upon us.

I've never been a fan of Halloween, I once made Marmite cakes with an old school friend one year to give to all the trick or treaters (completely fell through, the marmite seeped out the bottom and we were just left with what was predominantly sponge that had a tangy kick to it - GBBO, I wouldn't recommend) however a certain designer has managed to create an entire capsule collection based around the holiday which has made me much more susceptible to the pagan festival.

Charlotte Olympia has created turned her signature Kitty Cat pumps into a menacing feline, she's created pumpkin clutches and bat heels to help us all do the day in style. The collection is fun, endearing, yet entirely chic - a hard combination to make and one of the reasons Charlotte Olympia remains one of my favourite labels.

Kitty Cat pumps that bite

Pumpkin clutch

Bat heels

However, like everything nowadays it all comes at a price - and a pretty hefty one at that. I would make sure you had quite a few Halloween party invitations stacked up for years to come to make an investment out of them!

Clinging onto Celebrity?

Being a celebrity is a business in itself. Whether you it’s someone you idolize, being a singer or a chef (huge Mary Berry fan right here) or you are addicted to the showbiz section on the Mail Online, we are all guilty on some level of endorsing the nature of celebrity.

My Celeb Crush

I believe you can safely say that we as a society are pretty star dependent, we write about them, we tweet about them, we read about them, we watch them in films, on the television, we buy there latest collections, perfume, we listen to them on the radio, we buy their music, we even buy their possessions on eBay. 

However, has the fashion industry also fallen into this cavern of celebrity dependence? It has been argued that designers nowadays have fallen into relying on celebrities to set their trends and promote their collections. So how true is this? Has an industry, where designers once got their collections noted because of their originality and fashion was seen as a way of expressing yourself, been lost and become subject to the popular culture of the rich and famous to get their pieces noted, rather than striving for this by the using the clothes alone?

It’s a tricky question to answer. Looking into how far back the nature of celebrity goes, you can date it as far back as the 40s, when the industry of Hollywood broke out and designers would be brawling to dress hollywood stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. These have slowly been replaced by the Cara Delevignes, Rhiannas and Lady Gagas of the world today.

Marilyn Monroe

Audrey Hepburn

Stars today - Cara D

These ladies have been viewed as ‘living breathing displays for fashion houses across the world’, however is this necessarily a bad thing? Sam Norton, writer for The Equinox, argued that “we as a society dress in a way that is no longer a representation of themselves”. You could in some manner agree with this point, we have  lost the original charm that the sub cultures of the 80s held, who wore what represented them as a group, instead of pursuing the latest fashion trend set by someone else...  bringing us back to our original point, we may follow the trends, but who sets the trends? The designer of the label or the face of it?

Victoria Beckham Marc Jacobs campaign

Beyonce - H&M

“From the beginning of the 20th Century, celebrities started started to play a crucially important role in fashion - by patronising designers and, in wearing their clothes, giving prominence to their designs” Sam Norton appears to be of the opinion that this is a terrible thing, and we all need to snap out of it and remember the ‘true meaning of fashion’, “this needs to be changed; in how designers design their muses for a therefore change in how society represents itself”, he seems to be under the impression that if one celebrity wears a small skirt, a babble of teenage girls will follow along with this, making out designers and celebrities to be some kind of evil force that is going to encourage your teenager to wear eccentric and wayward ensembles.

However i disagree. Although he does make a relevant point, and perhaps a lot of us are influenced by particular designers and trends set by celebrities, I do not believe that it ‘shapes’ us as a society, and that the relationship between celebrity and designer is a bad thing. Not every eccentric outfit worn on the red carpet is going to be then seen on your local high street 2 days later, unless everyone who has been emulating Lady Gagas meat dress has been hiding round corners whenever i’ve gone to walk by. 

Meaty - Lady Gaga

It's how the saying goes, everyone and everything has to start somewhere. Yes, maybe you did get the idea to wear a Antonio Berardi dress from his resort collection because you saw fKate Bosworth wore it to the premiere of Straw Dogs, but why the hell wouldn’t you? She looked fabulous, and Antonio should be commended for his magical sewing machine. Here instead of seeing a celebrity and a designer scheming together, just to get them a little more noted, I see an actress, choosing to wear an amazing dress that flattered her astonishingly and gave the designer the commendation that he truly deserved for his design. It’s all about personal choice at the end of the day, whether you choose to follow a particular design or trend endorsed by a celeb, or you opt the your own ensembles, as long as it empowers you and you look and feel great, there’s no harm done right? 

Kate Bosworth in Antonio Berardi

Light-Minded Livery

Meet Agi And Sam...
http://agiandsam.com

As my time in the fashion world progresses I am becoming more and more intrigued by the realm of male fashion. It hadn't really entered my mind as a prospect before moving to London, but I have done a 180 flip, and have started to put down Glamour magazine and begun picking up the likes of GQ, Dazed and Pause.

There could be several explanations to this, it could be because I have 3 brothers and no sisters, it could be because (and I quote my Mother on this 'compliment') "I've always been a tomboy at heart"... i'd even tried with my outfit when she commented this, I proceeded to swiftly change my clothing choice. However, it could also be because there seems to be a change in the wind when it comes to male fashion, it is becoming more daring, bold, and has found it's own voice which isn't afraid to speak out. 

A collection that has recently been brought to my attention, and sparked my interest so much so that I wanted to write about it is the label 'Agi and Sam'. I was first introduced to this when looking around the PR company Exposure, and I have slowly fallen in love with the label.

When looking through some of their collection at Exposure, it was the their use of bespoke prints that appealed to me. One print in particular that consisted of small foxes and hounds caught my eye, as it held an quality of country chic, yet fits in nicely on the catwalk.

I returned to my flat to look into the label some more, and I not only became captivated by the clothes but the guys themselves, and concept behind the brand. Agi (Agi Mdumulla) studied at Manchester School of Art and Sam (Sam Cotton) studied at the University of Lincoln (big shout out to my home county there), helping put the North on the map for breeding sensational fashion designers. They stated "we believe that fashion should never be taken too seriously" on the BFC website, which I couldn't agree with more. They carry onto comment that their ideal client would be Ace Ventura Pet Detective. This light hearted approach is also transcribed on their website, I genuinely laughed out loud at some of the poses model Daniel Turner has cracked out for their SS13 collection in the 'How to Wear' section, coming across as half 70s policeman, half man you wouldn't want hanging around a playground. The great thing is that it works perfectly, and helps capture the humorous essence that they are trying to portray with their clothing. 

Despite the jovial nature of the brand, it is definitely one to be taken seriously. The boys are working their way up, having catwalks at fashion week, and not only building on their menswear collection, with their very contrasting SS14 collection (a lot more greys and sci fi qualities as opposed to SS13) but a womanswear collection as well, and are being mentored by the likes of Paul Smith. The label is unique, endearing and prominent... so it looks like they'll be getting bigger names than the pet detective wanting to wear them. 

"You don't take a photograph, you make it" - Ansel Adams

LCS Editorial Shoot: Day 1

Viewing shots in Shoreditch

The make up station!

Being a third of the way through at LCS, the time had come for out first editorial shoot. The thought of the shoot conjured both excitement and nausea within me, being mine and many other of my classmates first time doing anything of the sort. 

We had been given the brief ‘Urban Decay’ when we first started and had spent the previous weeks preparing.  

Looking around the room on the day of the shoot it was apparent that over these weeks we had all developed on 'Urban Decay' in very different ways.  We were told we could interpret urban decay how we wanted, which I took very literally. I personally veered away from the more street 'hip hop' aspect of the term urban (not because I didn’t think that was a good angle to go from, as those who did base their look on this had stunning looks) but because, if there's one thing you will learn about me over these blogs, I can never do anything simply. 

I worked through many ideas, flitting from one to the other, until I finally settled. My vision first sprang from going through my Banksy book, and wanting follow through with the idea coming from a piece of his work. I settled on ‘fallen angel’, thinking I could somehow loosely link the fallen with decay. I then moved onto looking at the words ‘Urban’ and ‘Decay’ separately. The dictionary definition of Urban is ‘living in a city’ or ‘characteristic of or accustomed to cities; citified: He is a city type’. What flashes into my mind when I think of city is the city slicker, the business mogul, the high flyers.. those people you see wandering around canary wharf in their two piece suits with the financial times tucked under their arm, eyes ahead, knowing where they are going and god forbid you try and stop them from getting to their much more important destination. I love them, they give off such an air of success that you half begin to want to follow them just to discover how important they are (i’ve never actually done that btw, please don’t read into that wrong). 

Banksy's Fallen Angel

So I went with this angle for the urban aspect instead. Now to Decay, one of the definitions is ‘to decline in excellence, prosperity health etc.; deteriorate’ , bingo. My interpretation of urban decay was going to be based around the idea of a high powered business woman declining in stature, or falling from grace, inspired by the Banksy piece. For the look I used extremely bright pieces to form my suit, to in keep with the brightness that is usually associated with urban apparel. To try and characterize the fallen in the look, I first had the idea of using angel wings in the piece, but after chatting with our tutors, they helped me come to realise that I needed to avoid the look becoming too costume, and keep it high end. With this I created a high necked feather collar, to try and add a divine and innocent aspect to the ensemble.

The shoot itself was a fantastic experience, taking place in the edgy region of Shoreditch in East London, known for its independent retailers and quirky atmosphere. We were lucky enough to be working with a stealth team of experts team, with our photographer (Edu Torez), make up artists (Martitn Carter and Rebecca) and our mentors (Wendy, Dan and Siobhan) helping us throughout the day. We all learnt many tips throughout the day that we can easily take with us and use on future jobs and any other experiences, from where to stand in parallel with the photographer, to what you should bring to the shoot in prep. One thing I certainly learnt is to never fold up your pieces and cram them to the bottom of your bag before hopping on a tube, that only ends in a stylists worst nightmare....creases. All the looks were interesting and dynamic, creating highly individual shots each time. The shoot was a great way to gage our creativity and an look into the world of editorial. Learning throughout the day and opening our eyes to a fast paced, artistic and pretty exhausting realm. 

The LCS crew!

Fancy injecting some colour into your suits like my fallen angel? Here are some examples of what is out there to enable you to do so (maybe leave the feathered collar at home though).. 

For the ladies:

http://www.boohoo.com/restofworld/clothing/neon-brights/icat/neon-brights/blazers/jade-neon-stripe-cuff-blazer/invt/azz44274

http://www.missguided.co.uk/tiffany-premium-tailored-blazer

http://www.missguided.co.uk/tiffany-premium-tailored-blazer-76366

For the gents:

http://www.nakalclothing.com/suits/coloured-suit

http://www.asos.com/pgeproduct.aspx?sgid=3128

http://www.topman.com/en/tmuk/product/suits-1950628/suit-jackets-blazers-140519/acid-yellow-skinny-blazer-2165848?bi=1&ps=200

Also links to stylish tweeters and make up marvels to follow featured in this blog, Martin and Emma:

https://twitter.com/mrfacemakeup

https://twitter.com/RebeccaMcM_MUA

One For The Boys

The worlds of science and art have always been viewed as complete parallels. One dependent on logicality, the other creativity. However the AW 13 collection for Topman has fused the two realms forming an implosion of creative diversity within high street fashion.

I was recently asked to write a sample article on this collection, so thought I would share my findings with all you who have probably accidentally stumbled across this blog. Having slept through most of my science lessons at school, I had to do a bit of research into this concept. Taxonomy literally is the branch of science concerned with the classification of organisms, things or concepts, and the Topman AW 13 collection draws creativity from this practice.

However, you don’t need to be scientifically minded to sense there is something experimental and methodical behind the inspiration for the AW 13 range. It consists of a lot of geometrical shapes, and almost imitates what you imagine seeing through a kaleido or microscope. It maintains a strong core of unique and bold print design. The latest collection takes to blending luxury athletic clothing with contemporary menswear, so think sweatshirts, bomber jackets, jogging bottoms with an array of rhythmic prints.The collection itself reeks cool, the bulk of it sticking to colder colours such as grey’s, turquoise's, different blues, with a slight injections of purples into some pieces.

As a menswear collection it’s edgy, and the pieces would certainly make you stand out in a crowd. It’s an individual and niche look, and (in my eyes) you have to fit a certain type to make the collection work. I'm not saying you have to be Pete Doherty, but like a lot of Topman collections. It’s suited for the more slender figured male with its bold and big prints, which would really help add volume to your build if you are looking to do so. However, due to the busyness of some of the prints, the stockier male should opt towards the pieces at the calmer end of the spectrum. 

The patterns and design of the collection are very inspiring, bridging the gap between science and art and creating a very futuristic form of design. It’s an ultra-modern and youthful  collection, that is extremely on trend for this season with it’s sci fi characteristics and use of grey. However, it is a distinct look and won’t be to every mans taste. I guess as Taxonomy is the classification of things then the range itself can be seen as a classification of the person displaying it, proving the uniqueness and diversity of the wearer. 

Longori-ing For Leather

Leather. It’s a daring material, one a lot of people choose to avoid in a dressing circumstance. I remember when I was about 13, I had a pair of leather trousers. I made my mum buy them for me thinking I would be the chicest kid waltzing around in my PVC pants... wore them a grand total of three times, and two of those times I didn’t leave the house. It’s a versatile textile that has been worn in any manner of clothing, and Eva Longoria has proven this by waltzing  onto the red carpet of the AMLA awards in a scarlet leather red dress.

Now, if one of my friends told me they had recently purchased a scarlet, polo necked, long sleeved, to the floor, leather and lace enthused dress and were planning on wearing it to a  public event, i’d have asked them if they were on crack. The description doesn’t exactly provoke the best mental image, but in all honesty, Longoria makes it work.

The designer of this devilishly daring piece is Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad, who has built on his dream of evading the world of fantasy through design, to quote him “I don’t recall a day in my life without a pen in my hand”. Murad achieves this evasion of fantasy with the dress Longoria introduces to us. The dress is a amalgam of leather and lace, mixing feminine with fetish, bringing to contrasting worlds together and making the collaboration a success.

This has definitely been the most courageous of Longoria's red carpet choices, looking at her previous history for 2013 we have a combination of gorgeous floor length gowns, however this brassy dress definitely wins the award for boldest. Leather and lace have been used all over catwalks this season and is a great inspiration for dresses for the upcoming party season. The great thing I believe about this combo is that it requires minimal accessorizing, thanks to the excitement and busyness of the dress itself. Who knows what has inspired Longoria to don this statement look, maybe it’s her recent break up, maybe she's just been watching Jennifer Garner in Elektra too much. 

If you enthused by this match making of materials, but want something a little more low key and easier on the pocket, take a look at these choices that are out on the high street today: 

http://www.missguided.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/56330/s/darrine-leather-bust-lace-skater-dress/?geoip=off&gclid=CPSqoauy9rkCFYyWtAod1T8AFA

http://www.asos.com/ASOS/ASOS-Mini-Leather-Dress-With-Lace-Applique/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=2709006&cid=13948&Rf900=3607&sh=0&pge=0&pgesize=9999&sort=-1&clr=Blue&affid=5571&WT.srch=1&gclid=CNi7xerv7rkCFS3HtAodKEUAmQ

http://www.missguided.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/62922/s/milenna-leather-lace-skater-dress/?geoip=off&gclid=CIqAxNKy9rkCFVMftAodsBYAkg

http://www.asos.com/Motel/Motel-Strawberry-Skater-Dress-In-Skull-Lace-With-PU-Skirt/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=3198125&cid=8799&sh=0&pge=0&pgesize=9999&sort=-1&clr=Navy&affid=5571&WT.srch=1&gclid=CPe-6Iqy9rkCFXMbtAodb2gAYA 

I’d like to take my hat off to the courageous Longoria, she is one of few that could pull this look off, I know if I wore this dress it would look less fierce independent woman, more lobster has brawl with sewing machine. However it does inspire a new fusion of materials that we can all somehow inject in our wardrobes this season. 

The Pioneers Of Party.

    “You might have been wearing dungarees; but they had to be the right dungarees”

When you think of the 80s, what comes to mind? For me it’s leg warmers, Duran Duran and my dear mother sporting a perm, denim jacket and peddle pushers.

My edgy 80s Mother. 

 However, clubbing isn’t something I would immediately jump to. It’s a scene i’m sure a lot of you out there are relatively acquainted with. I know the friends i’m forcing to read this blog certainly are, and I am to. When you really break it down, the nature of clubbing is actually quite a funny one, and you dress up in a particular way for particular clubs. Whether you’re tottering along in your heels and Motel dress, or your throwing on you high tops and denim shorts... Whatever the case may be, there are certain unwritten rules to dressing for a club, and as much as we hate to admit it, we all follow them. I am also guilty of this, there were some clubs in my University town of Reading that I wouldn’t have dreamed of entering without my heels, yet I would have happily gone out to my Students Union in a bin bag. So when and where did this all begin?

The place to find the answer is the ‘1980s Club to Catwalk’ exhibition at the V&A. It is a brilliant, interesting and thought provoking exhibition. Being someone that is both interested in History and Fashion I was looking forward to the trip with LCS, I had my pen and paper out before I had got off the tube at South Kensington.

Club to Catwalk explores the creative explosion of fashion in the 1980s, the decade that dared. The 80s launched the careers of many new designers, and was the emergence of a vibrant club and music scene, and the two colliding created an explosion of devil may care looks and attitudes. I could spend all day relaying the extensive amount of information I wrote down (please don’t close this window down yet) however, i’m going to keep it short and sweet and just explain a couple of things I learn’t personally from the exhibition, and what fashion today has learnt from it to.

You begin the exhibition with the designers, and the first thing I picked up from this section was that Maggie Thatcher was a surprising ally to the fashion world, saying “Fashion is important because it raises the quality of life when people take the trouble to dress well, and it also provides employment for many, many people.” So behind the pearls and the two pieces, there was a fashionista within Maggie, wearing a bomber jacket and dungarees dying to get out. However, despite being an advocate to fashion, haters will always be haters, and this is highlighted in Katharine Hamnetts casual clothing range. She is probably one of the most well known designers of the decade, her t-shirts sported well known slogans such as ‘Stay Alive in 85’, ‘Get it Straight by 88’ and ‘Get Thatcher Out’. Her T-Shirts were a platform for anti-war demonstrations and green politics. They highlight the daring nature and angst of fashion the 80s. Now i’ve never been a conservative, but i’ve also never been a condemner, and found it sad that even within an industry she supported Maggie was still sent to the stacks - if Katharine had been around in this age she would have probably had ‘Ding Dong The Witch Is Dead’ set to repeat on her iPod, but it is a perfect example of the strong messages that the designers in fashion were trying to set with their creations. 

Another nugget I learnt when walking around the exhibition was the amount of history that designers during the decade had pulled from. Vivenne Westwood quoted “I am a great believer in copying” and took this to re work fashions in a completely new and unique way. Her toga dress is a fine example of this, which was a design of classical drapery, incorporating printed motifs borrowed from modern art, the piece in the exhibition exampled this toga dress with an image of a can of Campbells Noodle Beef Soup printed on the side. Clearly my lecturers who lectured me in Ancient History at univerisity failed to mention the Greeks waltzing around sporting Andy Wharhol inspired prints on their togas.

Another designer who flourished in the 80s that took from history was John Galliano, with his french revolutionary inspired collection. John Galliano, who said “all experimental cutting led me to understand precisely how a jacket has been put together in the past; how to put it together correctly in the present and then from that, I was led to dismantle it and reassemble it in a way that would point to the future.” A fine explanation of how designers constantly pull and develop on the past. 

  There was one thing that I kept thinking when walking around the exhibition, if you landed up down Brick Lane on Saturday night, you would most likely see the majority of people (whilst knocking back a can of Red Stripe) dressed in a lot of what was being exhibited. So, just like how the 80s took from the past, we have taken from them. The designers of this decade were literal trend setters and the 80s was the beginning of rave, denim, lycra... all of which holds a predominant place in fashion and society today (and American Apparel..).  

Pam Hoggs 'Brave New World'

Heading upstairs, you hit the trends and the club section, which show examples from phases such as Goth, Glam Fetish, New Romantic, High Camp, Rave, Body Map, Hard Times.... all of which can still be found in some corner of London today. Each trend could be related to a certain club in London during the decade, for example New Romantic beginning at the 'Blitz' club, and High Camp at 'Taboo'. These clubs attracted a small selective crowd, and were suited for that particular trend, much like clubs around the world today. None of these groups are tame, all are outrageous in some manner and again highlight the audacious attitude of the 80s. Every aspect of it is brilliant and it is an example of the bravery that a lot of creative individuals hold whether its by showcasing their style as goth or glam, it’s admirable and a confidence I wish I held, however, it’s probably best that whilst growing up in Lincolnshire I never did, If I had ever walked around there in Pam Hoggs ‘Brave New World’ outfit, i’d have probably had stones pelted at me. 

The exhibition at the V&A is in a word, brilliant. Even if fashion isn’t your forte, I couldn’t recommend it enough. You gain so much more from it than just information on clothes, you learn about history of the decade, inspirations and can gage how not only the clothes and designers have developed through time, but how we as a society have developed with them. The 80s was the beginning of the hardening attitudes in fashion, music and opinion; all of which are still being reflected today.