Tuesday 29 October 2013

Small and Mighty


Logos, we are all familiar with them. Whether its the two tiny Cs that depict Coco Chanel, the top hatted pheasant of Jack Wills, or the polo player of Ralph Lauren, we will all be relatively familiar with one or two fashion brand logos. However these emblems may be small in size but mighty in power, as they could be the key to why you out there are more inclined to purchase that particular label. 

Chanel Logo

Jack Wills Logo

Ralph Lauren Logo



As well as being an important element of brand and design, logos have a significant effect on customers. The logo of luxury goods is symbolic, and are significantly influential on customers. 

I did a bit of research into what could convince a person to buy by a particular brand, and there is the theory of Conspicuous Consumption, which is the description of lavish spending on goods and services that are acquired mainly for the purpose of displaying income or wealth, helping to attain and maintain social status. 

Is a bit of a lude thought.. we may think we are buying these luxury goods and fashion labels because we like the quality, the style or the colour, but sub consusously it is because it holds a modest tag that sets us slightly above everyone else in society. 

Another thought leading on from this is does the exposure of a logo on a product make it more desirable? Imagine you are propositioned with two Mulberry handbags (i’ve been dreaming of that scenario happening to me for several years now), they are both legitimate, made the same, shaped the same, same style, same level of quality... the only difference is, one carries the tree emblem on the outside, and the other doesn't. Do you opt for the more modest version, that doesn't display the logo that can represent the costly nature of it, and just take it for the quality of the make, or do you opt for the one that does state the designer, making most people you walk past with it whip their own handbags over their shoulder. 

Mulberry Logo

As much as I would like to able to say I was that person who would be happy with quality alone, I wouldn’t. I’m only human, as are you, and I don’t think i’m in the minority with this thought. Logos may be sometimes viewed as representing ‘quality and taste’ (i really hate that phrase, as let’s be honest money doesn’t always buy taste) and a society of a higher stature, but it could also represent the love you hold for that particular label, whether you’ve bought it through saving for years, or can afford it with your monthly pay packet. Either way, both these thoughts example to us how important and powerful the small figurines of the fashion industry really are. 


Friday 25 October 2013

Trick or Treat?

With what is possibly the most commercialised day of the year coming up, it's time to get your broomsticks and vampire fangs out, as Halloween is upon us.

I've never been a fan of Halloween, I once made Marmite cakes with an old school friend one year to give to all the trick or treaters (completely fell through, the marmite seeped out the bottom and we were just left with what was predominantly sponge that had a tangy kick to it - GBBO, I wouldn't recommend) however a certain designer has managed to create an entire capsule collection based around the holiday which has made me much more susceptible to the pagan festival.

Charlotte Olympia has created turned her signature Kitty Cat pumps into a menacing feline, she's created pumpkin clutches and bat heels to help us all do the day in style. The collection is fun, endearing, yet entirely chic - a hard combination to make and one of the reasons Charlotte Olympia remains one of my favourite labels.

Kitty Cat pumps that bite

Pumpkin clutch

Bat heels
However, like everything nowadays it all comes at a price - and a pretty hefty one at that. I would make sure you had quite a few Halloween party invitations stacked up for years to come to make an investment out of them!



Wednesday 23 October 2013

Clinging onto Celebrity?


Being a celebrity is a business in itself. Whether you it’s someone you idolize, being a singer or a chef (huge Mary Berry fan right here) or you are addicted to the showbiz section on the Mail Online, we are all guilty on some level of endorsing the nature of celebrity.
My Celeb Crush
I believe you can safely say that we as a society are pretty star dependent, we write about them, we tweet about them, we read about them, we watch them in films, on the television, we buy there latest collections, perfume, we listen to them on the radio, we buy their music, we even buy their possessions on eBay. 

However, has the fashion industry also fallen into this cavern of celebrity dependence? It has been argued that designers nowadays have fallen into relying on celebrities to set their trends and promote their collections. So how true is this? Has an industry, where designers once got their collections noted because of their originality and fashion was seen as a way of expressing yourself, been lost and become subject to the popular culture of the rich and famous to get their pieces noted, rather than striving for this by the using the clothes alone?

It’s a tricky question to answer. Looking into how far back the nature of celebrity goes, you can date it as far back as the 40s, when the industry of Hollywood broke out and designers would be brawling to dress hollywood stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. These have slowly been replaced by the Cara Delevignes, Rhiannas and Lady Gagas of the world today.

Marilyn Monroe

Audrey Hepburn

Stars today - Cara D
These ladies have been viewed as ‘living breathing displays for fashion houses across the world’, however is this necessarily a bad thing? Sam Norton, writer for The Equinox, argued that “we as a society dress in a way that is no longer a representation of themselves”. You could in some manner agree with this point, we have  lost the original charm that the sub cultures of the 80s held, who wore what represented them as a group, instead of pursuing the latest fashion trend set by someone else...  bringing us back to our original point, we may follow the trends, but who sets the trends? The designer of the label or the face of it?
Victoria Beckham Marc Jacobs campaign
Beyonce - H&M

“From the beginning of the 20th Century, celebrities started started to play a crucially important role in fashion - by patronising designers and, in wearing their clothes, giving prominence to their designs” Sam Norton appears to be of the opinion that this is a terrible thing, and we all need to snap out of it and remember the ‘true meaning of fashion’, “this needs to be changed; in how designers design their muses for a therefore change in how society represents itself”, he seems to be under the impression that if one celebrity wears a small skirt, a babble of teenage girls will follow along with this, making out designers and celebrities to be some kind of evil force that is going to encourage your teenager to wear eccentric and wayward ensembles.
However i disagree. Although he does make a relevant point, and perhaps a lot of us are influenced by particular designers and trends set by celebrities, I do not believe that it ‘shapes’ us as a society, and that the relationship between celebrity and designer is a bad thing. Not every eccentric outfit worn on the red carpet is going to be then seen on your local high street 2 days later, unless everyone who has been emulating Lady Gagas meat dress has been hiding round corners whenever i’ve gone to walk by. 

Meaty - Lady Gaga

It's how the saying goes, everyone and everything has to start somewhere. Yes, maybe you did get the idea to wear a Antonio Berardi dress from his resort collection because you saw fKate Bosworth wore it to the premiere of Straw Dogs, but why the hell wouldn’t you? She looked fabulous, and Antonio should be commended for his magical sewing machine. Here instead of seeing a celebrity and a designer scheming together, just to get them a little more noted, I see an actress, choosing to wear an amazing dress that flattered her astonishingly and gave the designer the commendation that he truly deserved for his design. It’s all about personal choice at the end of the day, whether you choose to follow a particular design or trend endorsed by a celeb, or you opt the your own ensembles, as long as it empowers you and you look and feel great, there’s no harm done right? 
Kate Bosworth in Antonio Berardi

Thursday 10 October 2013

Light-Minded Livery

Meet Agi And Sam...
http://agiandsam.com

As my time in the fashion world progresses I am becoming more and more intrigued by the realm of male fashion. It hadn't really entered my mind as a prospect before moving to London, but I have done a 180 flip, and have started to put down Glamour magazine and begun picking up the likes of GQ, Dazed and Pause.

There could be several explanations to this, it could be because I have 3 brothers and no sisters, it could be because (and I quote my Mother on this 'compliment') "I've always been a tomboy at heart"... i'd even tried with my outfit when she commented this, I proceeded to swiftly change my clothing choice. However, it could also be because there seems to be a change in the wind when it comes to male fashion, it is becoming more daring, bold, and has found it's own voice which isn't afraid to speak out. 

A collection that has recently been brought to my attention, and sparked my interest so much so that I wanted to write about it is the label 'Agi and Sam'. I was first introduced to this when looking around the PR company Exposure, and I have slowly fallen in love with the label.

When looking through some of their collection at Exposure, it was the their use of bespoke prints that appealed to me. One print in particular that consisted of small foxes and hounds caught my eye, as it held an quality of country chic, yet fits in nicely on the catwalk.



I returned to my flat to look into the label some more, and I not only became captivated by the clothes but the guys themselves, and concept behind the brand. Agi (Agi Mdumulla) studied at Manchester School of Art and Sam (Sam Cotton) studied at the University of Lincoln (big shout out to my home county there), helping put the North on the map for breeding sensational fashion designers. They stated "we believe that fashion should never be taken too seriously" on the BFC website, which I couldn't agree with more. They carry onto comment that their ideal client would be Ace Ventura Pet Detective. This light hearted approach is also transcribed on their website, I genuinely laughed out loud at some of the poses model Daniel Turner has cracked out for their SS13 collection in the 'How to Wear' section, coming across as half 70s policeman, half man you wouldn't want hanging around a playground. The great thing is that it works perfectly, and helps capture the humorous essence that they are trying to portray with their clothing. 




















Despite the jovial nature of the brand, it is definitely one to be taken seriously. The boys are working their way up, having catwalks at fashion week, and not only building on their menswear collection, with their very contrasting SS14 collection (a lot more greys and sci fi qualities as opposed to SS13) but a womanswear collection as well, and are being mentored by the likes of Paul Smith. The label is unique, endearing and prominent... so it looks like they'll be getting bigger names than the pet detective wanting to wear them. 



Monday 7 October 2013

"You don't take a photograph, you make it" - Ansel Adams


LCS Editorial Shoot: Day 1


Viewing shots in Shoreditch
The make up station!
Being a third of the way through at LCS, the time had come for out first editorial shoot. The thought of the shoot conjured both excitement and nausea within me, being mine and many other of my classmates first time doing anything of the sort. 

We had been given the brief ‘Urban Decay’ when we first started and had spent the previous weeks preparing.  
Looking around the room on the day of the shoot it was apparent that over these weeks we had all developed on 'Urban Decay' in very different ways.  We were told we could interpret urban decay how we wanted, which I took very literally. I personally veered away from the more street 'hip hop' aspect of the term urban (not because I didn’t think that was a good angle to go from, as those who did base their look on this had stunning looks) but because, if there's one thing you will learn about me over these blogs, I can never do anything simply. 

I worked through many ideas, flitting from one to the other, until I finally settled. My vision first sprang from going through my Banksy book, and wanting follow through with the idea coming from a piece of his work. I settled on ‘fallen angel’, thinking I could somehow loosely link the fallen with decay. I then moved onto looking at the words ‘Urban’ and ‘Decay’ separately. The dictionary definition of Urban is ‘living in a city’ or ‘characteristic of or accustomed to cities; citified: He is a city type’. What flashes into my mind when I think of city is the city slicker, the business mogul, the high flyers.. those people you see wandering around canary wharf in their two piece suits with the financial times tucked under their arm, eyes ahead, knowing where they are going and god forbid you try and stop them from getting to their much more important destination. I love them, they give off such an air of success that you half begin to want to follow them just to discover how important they are (i’ve never actually done that btw, please don’t read into that wrong). 

Banksy's Fallen Angel

So I went with this angle for the urban aspect instead. Now to Decay, one of the definitions is ‘to decline in excellence, prosperity health etc.; deteriorate’ , bingo. My interpretation of urban decay was going to be based around the idea of a high powered business woman declining in stature, or falling from grace, inspired by the Banksy piece. For the look I used extremely bright pieces to form my suit, to in keep with the brightness that is usually associated with urban apparel. To try and characterize the fallen in the look, I first had the idea of using angel wings in the piece, but after chatting with our tutors, they helped me come to realise that I needed to avoid the look becoming too costume, and keep it high end. With this I created a high necked feather collar, to try and add a divine and innocent aspect to the ensemble.

The shoot itself was a fantastic experience, taking place in the edgy region of Shoreditch in East London, known for its independent retailers and quirky atmosphere. We were lucky enough to be working with a stealth team of experts team, with our photographer (Edu Torez), make up artists (Martitn Carter and Rebecca) and our mentors (Wendy, Dan and Siobhan) helping us throughout the day. We all learnt many tips throughout the day that we can easily take with us and use on future jobs and any other experiences, from where to stand in parallel with the photographer, to what you should bring to the shoot in prep. One thing I certainly learnt is to never fold up your pieces and cram them to the bottom of your bag before hopping on a tube, that only ends in a stylists worst nightmare....creases. All the looks were interesting and dynamic, creating highly individual shots each time. The shoot was a great way to gage our creativity and an look into the world of editorial. Learning throughout the day and opening our eyes to a fast paced, artistic and pretty exhausting realm. 

The LCS crew!

Fancy injecting some colour into your suits like my fallen angel? Here are some examples of what is out there to enable you to do so (maybe leave the feathered collar at home though).. 

For the ladies:



For the gents:




Also links to stylish tweeters and make up marvels to follow featured in this blog, Martin and Emma:

https://twitter.com/mrfacemakeup

https://twitter.com/RebeccaMcM_MUA


Friday 4 October 2013

One For The Boys




The worlds of science and art have always been viewed as complete parallels. One dependent on logicality, the other creativity. However the AW 13 collection for Topman has fused the two realms forming an implosion of creative diversity within high street fashion.
I was recently asked to write a sample article on this collection, so thought I would share my findings with all you who have probably accidentally stumbled across this blog. Having slept through most of my science lessons at school, I had to do a bit of research into this concept. Taxonomy literally is the branch of science concerned with the classification of organisms, things or concepts, and the Topman AW 13 collection draws creativity from this practice.
However, you don’t need to be scientifically minded to sense there is something experimental and methodical behind the inspiration for the AW 13 range. It consists of a lot of geometrical shapes, and almost imitates what you imagine seeing through a kaleido or microscope. It maintains a strong core of unique and bold print design. The latest collection takes to blending luxury athletic clothing with contemporary menswear, so think sweatshirts, bomber jackets, jogging bottoms with an array of rhythmic prints.The collection itself reeks cool, the bulk of it sticking to colder colours such as grey’s, turquoise's, different blues, with a slight injections of purples into some pieces.
As a menswear collection it’s edgy, and the pieces would certainly make you stand out in a crowd. It’s an individual and niche look, and (in my eyes) you have to fit a certain type to make the collection work. I'm not saying you have to be Pete Doherty, but like a lot of Topman collections. It’s suited for the more slender figured male with its bold and big prints, which would really help add volume to your build if you are looking to do so. However, due to the busyness of some of the prints, the stockier male should opt towards the pieces at the calmer end of the spectrum. 
The patterns and design of the collection are very inspiring, bridging the gap between science and art and creating a very futuristic form of design. It’s an ultra-modern and youthful  collection, that is extremely on trend for this season with it’s sci fi characteristics and use of grey. However, it is a distinct look and won’t be to every mans taste. I guess as Taxonomy is the classification of things then the range itself can be seen as a classification of the person displaying it, proving the uniqueness and diversity of the wearer. 





Tuesday 1 October 2013

Longori-ing For Leather

Leather. It’s a daring material, one a lot of people choose to avoid in a dressing circumstance. I remember when I was about 13, I had a pair of leather trousers. I made my mum buy them for me thinking I would be the chicest kid waltzing around in my PVC pants... wore them a grand total of three times, and two of those times I didn’t leave the house. It’s a versatile textile that has been worn in any manner of clothing, and Eva Longoria has proven this by waltzing  onto the red carpet of the AMLA awards in a scarlet leather red dress.


Now, if one of my friends told me they had recently purchased a scarlet, polo necked, long sleeved, to the floor, leather and lace enthused dress and were planning on wearing it to a  public event, i’d have asked them if they were on crack. The description doesn’t exactly provoke the best mental image, but in all honesty, Longoria makes it work.

The designer of this devilishly daring piece is Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad, who has built on his dream of evading the world of fantasy through design, to quote him “I don’t recall a day in my life without a pen in my hand”. Murad achieves this evasion of fantasy with the dress Longoria introduces to us. The dress is a amalgam of leather and lace, mixing feminine with fetish, bringing to contrasting worlds together and making the collaboration a success.

This has definitely been the most courageous of Longoria's red carpet choices, looking at her previous history for 2013 we have a combination of gorgeous floor length gowns, however this brassy dress definitely wins the award for boldest. Leather and lace have been used all over catwalks this season and is a great inspiration for dresses for the upcoming party season. The great thing I believe about this combo is that it requires minimal accessorizing, thanks to the excitement and busyness of the dress itself. Who knows what has inspired Longoria to don this statement look, maybe it’s her recent break up, maybe she's just been watching Jennifer Garner in Elektra too much. 






If you enthused by this match making of materials, but want something a little more low key and easier on the pocket, take a look at these choices that are out on the high street today: 





I’d like to take my hat off to the courageous Longoria, she is one of few that could pull this look off, I know if I wore this dress it would look less fierce independent woman, more lobster has brawl with sewing machine. However it does inspire a new fusion of materials that we can all somehow inject in our wardrobes this season.