The Pioneers Of Party.

    “You might have been wearing dungarees; but they had to be the right dungarees”

When you think of the 80s, what comes to mind? For me it’s leg warmers, Duran Duran and my dear mother sporting a perm, denim jacket and peddle pushers.

My edgy 80s Mother. 

 However, clubbing isn’t something I would immediately jump to. It’s a scene i’m sure a lot of you out there are relatively acquainted with. I know the friends i’m forcing to read this blog certainly are, and I am to. When you really break it down, the nature of clubbing is actually quite a funny one, and you dress up in a particular way for particular clubs. Whether you’re tottering along in your heels and Motel dress, or your throwing on you high tops and denim shorts... Whatever the case may be, there are certain unwritten rules to dressing for a club, and as much as we hate to admit it, we all follow them. I am also guilty of this, there were some clubs in my University town of Reading that I wouldn’t have dreamed of entering without my heels, yet I would have happily gone out to my Students Union in a bin bag. So when and where did this all begin?

The place to find the answer is the ‘1980s Club to Catwalk’ exhibition at the V&A. It is a brilliant, interesting and thought provoking exhibition. Being someone that is both interested in History and Fashion I was looking forward to the trip with LCS, I had my pen and paper out before I had got off the tube at South Kensington.

Club to Catwalk explores the creative explosion of fashion in the 1980s, the decade that dared. The 80s launched the careers of many new designers, and was the emergence of a vibrant club and music scene, and the two colliding created an explosion of devil may care looks and attitudes. I could spend all day relaying the extensive amount of information I wrote down (please don’t close this window down yet) however, i’m going to keep it short and sweet and just explain a couple of things I learn’t personally from the exhibition, and what fashion today has learnt from it to.

You begin the exhibition with the designers, and the first thing I picked up from this section was that Maggie Thatcher was a surprising ally to the fashion world, saying “Fashion is important because it raises the quality of life when people take the trouble to dress well, and it also provides employment for many, many people.” So behind the pearls and the two pieces, there was a fashionista within Maggie, wearing a bomber jacket and dungarees dying to get out. However, despite being an advocate to fashion, haters will always be haters, and this is highlighted in Katharine Hamnetts casual clothing range. She is probably one of the most well known designers of the decade, her t-shirts sported well known slogans such as ‘Stay Alive in 85’, ‘Get it Straight by 88’ and ‘Get Thatcher Out’. Her T-Shirts were a platform for anti-war demonstrations and green politics. They highlight the daring nature and angst of fashion the 80s. Now i’ve never been a conservative, but i’ve also never been a condemner, and found it sad that even within an industry she supported Maggie was still sent to the stacks - if Katharine had been around in this age she would have probably had ‘Ding Dong The Witch Is Dead’ set to repeat on her iPod, but it is a perfect example of the strong messages that the designers in fashion were trying to set with their creations. 

Another nugget I learnt when walking around the exhibition was the amount of history that designers during the decade had pulled from. Vivenne Westwood quoted “I am a great believer in copying” and took this to re work fashions in a completely new and unique way. Her toga dress is a fine example of this, which was a design of classical drapery, incorporating printed motifs borrowed from modern art, the piece in the exhibition exampled this toga dress with an image of a can of Campbells Noodle Beef Soup printed on the side. Clearly my lecturers who lectured me in Ancient History at univerisity failed to mention the Greeks waltzing around sporting Andy Wharhol inspired prints on their togas.

Another designer who flourished in the 80s that took from history was John Galliano, with his french revolutionary inspired collection. John Galliano, who said “all experimental cutting led me to understand precisely how a jacket has been put together in the past; how to put it together correctly in the present and then from that, I was led to dismantle it and reassemble it in a way that would point to the future.” A fine explanation of how designers constantly pull and develop on the past. 

  There was one thing that I kept thinking when walking around the exhibition, if you landed up down Brick Lane on Saturday night, you would most likely see the majority of people (whilst knocking back a can of Red Stripe) dressed in a lot of what was being exhibited. So, just like how the 80s took from the past, we have taken from them. The designers of this decade were literal trend setters and the 80s was the beginning of rave, denim, lycra... all of which holds a predominant place in fashion and society today (and American Apparel..).  

Pam Hoggs 'Brave New World'

Heading upstairs, you hit the trends and the club section, which show examples from phases such as Goth, Glam Fetish, New Romantic, High Camp, Rave, Body Map, Hard Times.... all of which can still be found in some corner of London today. Each trend could be related to a certain club in London during the decade, for example New Romantic beginning at the 'Blitz' club, and High Camp at 'Taboo'. These clubs attracted a small selective crowd, and were suited for that particular trend, much like clubs around the world today. None of these groups are tame, all are outrageous in some manner and again highlight the audacious attitude of the 80s. Every aspect of it is brilliant and it is an example of the bravery that a lot of creative individuals hold whether its by showcasing their style as goth or glam, it’s admirable and a confidence I wish I held, however, it’s probably best that whilst growing up in Lincolnshire I never did, If I had ever walked around there in Pam Hoggs ‘Brave New World’ outfit, i’d have probably had stones pelted at me. 

The exhibition at the V&A is in a word, brilliant. Even if fashion isn’t your forte, I couldn’t recommend it enough. You gain so much more from it than just information on clothes, you learn about history of the decade, inspirations and can gage how not only the clothes and designers have developed through time, but how we as a society have developed with them. The 80s was the beginning of the hardening attitudes in fashion, music and opinion; all of which are still being reflected today. 

LONDON FASHION WEEK: WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?

There seems no better way to begin a fashion blog than with one of the biggest events in British fashion itself; London Fashion Week. Being both a blog and LFW virgin, not only am I slightly inexperienced in both these areas, I am extremely nervous about presenting my ramblings on the fashion industry over the world wide web, so I beg you, be gentle with me.

With London being voted global fashion capital in 2012 for the second year running, and the direct value of the UK’s fashion industry to UK economy being £21 billion, it couldn’t be one of the most apt places to hold the biggest fashion event in the UK, and it being my first time, I was extremely excited for it.

Naomi Campbell, Vogue 1992.

However, entering the courtyard of Somerset House I was all of a sudden horrendously daunted. There were cameras, passes, size 6s and heels higher than my actual legs everywhere I looked. Standing there, with a bit of a wait until the my first show actually started (i’m new to London, and had allowed a generous hour and a half for what turned out to be a 25 minute commute) I tried to take everything in. There was only one thought going through my mind, and that was "bloody hell I'm underdressed". Girls and boys had gone all out for the event, some, that if you had put them in a frame, would not have looked out of place at Tate Modern. I was confused, being a newbie I was expecting lots of Victoria Beckham's and Rosie Hunting-Whitely's walking around, but I was mistaken, there was everything in the courtyard from the wonderful to the, if i’m honest, a bit weird. It seemed to me as if there was some form of competition going on between them all, who could stand out the most? Who could get snapped by the most bloggers and photographers? Could anyone produce a Blue Steel better than Ben Stiller? Some girls were going as far as standing in the middle of the open space and practically posing like Naomi Campbell in Vogue back in 1992, just so passers by's had the opportunity to lap up their outfits and attitude. 

So I stood there, in my pretty mellow Topshop trousers and charity shop bought shirt and wondered; Why are all these people really here? Is it just because we all share the same love of fashion, or was there something else? Were others seeking inspiration? Opportunities? Lime light? And, if I started to pose like that how long would it be before people started pelting things at me to get me to stop?

I felt there was more behind Fashion Week than just staring at pretty clothes and I wanted to know what. I wanted to know what fashion week really meant to everyone there. 

Braganza SS14

Braganza SS14

To try and answer this question I started by looking at the shows. Now they were possibly everything I expected and more, my first being Jean-Pierre Braganza SS14. Braganza is a growing icon within fashion, from being selected by Karl Lagerfeld as his protege for the AW08/9 season, to being a finalist for awards such as; the British Fashion Councils Fashion Forward award, The Swiss Textiles award, and the Mango Fashion award.. so I was expecting big things. The collection itself was beautiful, with the use of feminine textiles such as lace and silk, loosely fitting on the models slender frames. When reading about what inspired Braganza’s collection, he made what I believe to be the most adorable remark, “I’m fascinated by the controlled nonchalance with which my daughter wears her school uniform” and goes onto comment “the most attractive women in the world always give the impression that they’ve put very little effort into their outfits” and this is what the collection tries to explore, the casualness of a well over thought ensemble. We’ve all tried to achieve it, but he achieves it magnificently, making the models look chic but impromptu, they made everyone else in the room look inadequate, yet it was if they had just slung it on whilst walking out the front door. 

Tabernacle Twins SS14

Tabernacle Twins SS14

Tabernacle Twins SS14

Another show that particularly stood out for me was the Tabernacle Twins show at the Freemasons Hall. This was an extreme contrast to Braganza, being somewhat more daring in their design. The idea behind the Tabernacle Twins itself in my eyes is creative genius, before even looking at the clothes. The label is designed by Danish designer Vibe Lundemark. The approach to the design is narrative based, evolving around the fictitious characters of the ‘Tabernacle Twins’. The label follows the twins in new chapters of their adventurous journey, each collection telling a new chapter. Each collection then consists of panoramic scenes on the pieces, which define the inspiration for the relevant collection. This being my first introduction to the label I personally found this approach to design both ingenious and intriguing. The chapter that was showcased in front of us for SS14 was entitled ‘Cobra Casablanca’, with pieces showing visions of cobras, enthusing them with bold prints, free flowing materials and lace. When reading the poem that came with the press release for the collection it turned out the show itself was telling a story, each section of the show recreating a section of the poem. The entire show was well thought out and original, however I liked the concept behind the collection more than the collection itself. When researching the brand I was more drawn to their previous SS collection, enthusing turquoise, orange and black with more elegant patterns, it was much more delicate, but that’s down to personal preference. If you are after something more raw then this collection is for you. However, the brilliance with this brand is that you WANT to follow the twins on their journey and see what adventure is in store next. It’s enticing, it’s original, and it’s daring... and I will certainly be keeping track of the twins to see how they get along.

After looking at the main shows I gaged that fashion week for the designers (I didn’t get to ask any personally, apparently their are more important people to talk to than a first time blogger from Lincolnshire) was all about opportunity and courage, being able to put their creative self on a plate and present it to numerous magazines, photographers, bloggers, fans, fellow designers... the list is endless. It's an incredibly brave thing to do and something I hugely admire and am quite envious of.

The clothes are only one factor in fashion week that make it tick though, along with that there is you, the general public, the enthusiasts. So I asked “What does fashion week mean to you?” to some poor passers by, who were unexpectedly pounced on by a girl who was wearing a top that was possibly a bit too neon for ten in the morning, begging them to help me try and answer this question. I would like to thank them for, not only restraining from asking why on earth I choose to wear that colour, but for honestly answering me. 

“Lot’s of work! I work for Style etc Magazine and TK Maxx, so fashion week is a lot of hard work for us, but it’s exciting. It’s exciting to see shows and trends and you can gage a trend forecast. It’s also a great opportunity to support new designers, I think the shows with Fashion Scout is a great way to do this.” - Pearl Westwood. 

“To me it’s all about discovery; discovery of a new brand and new seasons. It’s about the future and a good insight into what will be trending next!” - Wendy Lim

  “Fashion week is a source of Inspiration for my work, i’m a Stylist and fashion blogger so it’s a fantastic opportunity me.” - Yolanda Margallo 

“It’s exciting! It’s my first fashion week and I was expecting it to be catty - but it’s not at all!” It’s all about meeting like minded people, finding the incredible and seeing the innovative”. - Nancy Le Roux (sporting a fabulous Rosemary Goodenough scarf)

“It’s inspiration and looking to the future - discovering how we are going to be shaped as a society.” - Chloe Alderstein 

“Celebration! Celebration of fashion, beauty and good taste” - Iga Nowicz 

So, Fashion Week means lots of things to different people - whether it’s discovery, the future, work, inspiration or excitement. To me however, it was about realisation. Realisation of the hard work, nice people and incredible     collections that make this fantastic event a success. At first I found the whole                     thing overwhelming, realising that I wasn’t actually the only stylist in the world trying to get their foot in the door. However, overcoming this rabbit caught in headlights state it did make me realize that no matter how hard, frustrating and demanding it’s going to be, just how much I wanted to be a part of it.